The iconic business district of Bombay with "London Feel" - Ballard Estate heritage walk

Erstwhile Bombay or Mumbai city today has many business districts but non can match the iconic business district of Ballard Estate nestled between the C.S.M.T and fort area of South Mumbai. Named after the founder of Bombay Port Trust Colonel J.A. Ballard, It is built on 22 acres of reclaimed land using excavated rocks and soil from the creation of Alexandra docks. This was when the world was at war - the WW-1 between 1914 -1918. It was the aesthetic design sense of architect - George Wittet who designed most of the buildings in this commercial district with uniformity of style through the use of European Renaissance facades which gives it a "London Feel". George is the same gentlemen who gave us "Gateway of India" and helped develop the Indo - Saracenic style of architecture. 

Ballard Estate turns into a ghost town post - sundown and on weekends it is an interesting place where the cross lanes are playground for "gully cricket matches" or a Movie shoot happening at some or even pre-marriage photo shoot of young couples. A walk exploring this heritage precinct is an extremely pleasurable experience and it becomes even more interesting when we get to know the tidbits stories and heritage tales associated with the place. So on one of my Sunday afternoon I set out on a leisurely stroll exploring the precinct and its hidden heritage. 

I started my walk from corner of Shoorji Vallabhdas road, Building of Marshall and sons - (an engineering firm of British era established in 1905) in Edwardian Baroque style and has a statue of Britannica holding a trident and seated Lion statues. 

Next stop is the Bombay Port Trust building, The trust was responsible for building city's historic port and Ballard Pier and immensely contributed in emergence of Bombay as commercial capital of India. The building has an interesting façade with protruding boats carved on its external walls.

Customs house building façade with two huge pillars with carved design at the top. There is also New customs house next door built in 20th century was city's mercantile trade was expanding and this necessitated the construction of newer customs house.

The newer customs house has a striking facade and stained glass windows, City trade grew exponentially and there was a need for faster clearance of customs required.

The most important monument in Ballard Estate is World war -1 memorial in memory of soldiers who gave their lives, A plaque giving details of Port of Bombay's role in the war efforts. 

A gated entrance to Ballard Bunder with two cannons guarding it. This dockside gatehouse contains a small but interesting museum about maritime history of Mumbai and some old photos of colonial Bombay. It is closed on Sundays hence I could not visit.

Also many would not know but this was also entrance to Ballard Pier mole station, A railway station from where central and western railway trains chugged all the way to N.W.F.P of Peshawar as well as Karachi and Calcutta before partition. Britishers would arrive in steamers from Britain and other parts of world on steamers and would hop on to the train from Ballard Pier railway station.

Just at the corner of the street, next to the WW-1 memorial is Darabshaw house, an office building today which has office of Vogue India, once also had Regent hotel which provided affordable lodging  for not so rich and famous. Just a few blocks away was Hotel Grand which was for affluent class.

The front façade window top has a emblem stating "Labor Omnia Vincit" meaning "Work conquers all."

At the end of road lies the gate of Alexandra dock gate which is embarkment and dis-embarkment point for passengers and crews of ships and cruise liners in Bombay port.

At the corner lies another sandstone building which is today 100 years old, Mackinnon Mackinzie and co office building was home to a leading shipping firm British India steam navigation company during British era. This company was established in Calcutta by two Scotsmen  in 1847. The imposing external façade with huge pillars and regal statue are a treat to the eyes.

One of the building gate had the symbol of Caduceus - A staff with two serpents carried by Hermes in Greek Mythology. It is also a symbol adopted by American medical corps.

At the corner of SS Ramagulam road and Walchand Hirachand marg is one of the most famous colonial Grand Hotel. It was built in 1926 by Shorabji Shapurji Engineer. This hotel was part of original precinct and was meant for rich and famous.

Moving inwards on SS Ramagulam road, A banyan tree covers the white washed Karfule Petrol Pump built in 1938 by Caltex a former fuel supplier and has been run by the Sequeria family. A Caltex logo memorabilia cutout lay in their service centre which was closed on Sunday. One of the three art deco petrol pumps in the city has original Terrazzo flooring in the office which I couldn't see as their office was also closed.

Near the petrol pump lies the iconic Irani café - Britannia and co, founded by Kohinoor family in 1923, It is the jewel in the crown of South Bombay. Their signature dish includes Berry Pulao, Caramel custard and Rose Raspberry.

The cafe was in news when in September 2019, The owner and old man of the café Mr Boman Kohinoor passed away at the age of 97.

Opposite of café lies an eye catching entrance of a building named "Kaiser-I-Hind" meaning Emperor of India.

Further ahead lies Volkart building, The window grills showcases the logo of the company. Volkart  Brothers was a trading firm with focus on commodities, established by Volkart brothers in 1851 at Winterthur Switzerland and Bombay, They established commercial connection between India and Europe later they branched out in Ceylon. Once Volkart trading company was 4th largest cotton traders in the world. Parts of group companies were taken over after 118 years by Erb group. Today the building ownership is with Volkart foundation trust - an NGO with Indian trustees and Reinhart family.

Construction house At the end of R Kamani Marg lies was built by Walchand group founder Walchand Hirachand Doshi. Worth noting is the panel of carvings depicting construction scene on the building façade.

Hamilton house not be confused with building which houses the iconic Hamilton studio like I did, The building is home to Pundole art gallery and Mumbai's finest auction house.

Hamilton studio, city's oldest and most beautiful studio was owned by Ranjit Madhavji. It is said that Zeenat Aman's career was launched from here. It so happened that her mom took her to the studio to get matrimonial portfolio when Ranjit said the girl had making of a model, recommended her for then Khatau calender and they say rest was history.

Back in the day, Royalty to Maharajahs to generals, all visiting dignitaries in Mumbai have been shot by Ranjit Madhavji. He was Bombay state photographer and captured royalty and city's elite in their glory.

Contractor building established in 1922 houses regional offices of Shapoorji Palonji group.

Kamani chambers was the headquarters of Kamani group of companies, Established by Ramjibhai Kamani who pioneered electric power transmission and also production of derivatives of non ferrous metals. The road is named in his honour in the neighbourhood. Today one of Kamani group company KEC is part of Harsh Goenka RPG group and largest transmission tower manufacturing company. I found this interesting blog about the life and times of Ramjibhai Kamani (Biography)

Pillar at the entrance of the building

Neville house is a quiet unassuming building in a corner of Ballard Estate, The ownership lies with Wadia Family who were pioneers in shipbuilding in India, They have also built city's first dry dock which was the first in Asia. They are also India's connection with US national anthem. Wadia's built the ship HMS Minden - one of the first naval ships for British navy on which American national anthem was composed in 1812.

National Hindu Restaurant is the go to place for all meals in a day for the office goers in Ballard Estate with their steamy South Indian items

Prince of Wales seamen's club was established in 1837 initially started out from Dhobi Talao. The current building was opened by HRH Prince of wales in 1921 and the club provides accommodation, recreation and welfare for all seafarers for all ranks and nationalities that either in port or transiting through Mumbai. The entry is restricted to only Seafarers in the club.

Ballard house at Adi Marzban street was built in 1837 has a large semicircular arch at the entrance. Its tympanum is ornamented with inscription of Ballard House. It was former residence of BPT chairman Mr. Ballard and also housed office and press of second oldest newspaper in Asia Jam-e- Jamshed which primarily covered issues of interest of Zoroastrian community. It has been in circulation since 1832 onwards.

Cafe Universal is one of the few classic Irani cafes which showcases framed Parsi and Iranian culture on their walls. The cafe is well known for its traditional Parsi dishes and one cannot miss the entrance of the cafe with its art-nouveau decor and its four grand doorways, butterscotch coloured walls, wood beam ceiling and marble chandeliers. It is one of the classiest cafes in Mumbai.

Hague building on S Ramagulam marg was constructed in 1919 and housed head office of great international picture house of Paris - Pathe Freres and was named Pathe building. It changed its name to Hague building when Pathe interest in India along with building were transferred in 1934. 

Imperial chambers located on Wilson road is owned by Government but a notable feature is two bearded men wearing suits sitting on top of its entrance.

Found this logo of Bombay Port Trust on one of the building gate. 

On weekends Ballard Estate is Bollywood's little secret, Film crews flock to this neighbourhood when need a location that looks like London and cost half as much. When I was on my stroll, Found this film crew shooting at the location. The road divider that we see in the picture is fake and made from cardboard for the film shoot :-) 

Since Ballard pier has been associated with shipping trade, many cross lanes have been named after the cities with which it had trades in India like Goa street, Kumta, Calicut, Cochin street. Narrow Goa street houses St John Evangelist church - a non discreet yet peaceful place of worship built in 1963.

Another narrow lane running parallel to Goa street is Kumta street which has few old buildings, one of them had balustrade balcony, signboard indicating it was office of Taekwando association of Maharashtra. Another old wooden door which marked the entrance of a building. 

This marked the end of my interesting walk in Ballard estate, If at the end of your walk you feel hungry, you can head to a Swiss eating joint - The clearing house, it is built in a defunct old ice factory, ancient pulley system still adores its ceiling which was used earlier and one also gets to see a old but still intact chimney.

Basking in the Sun

On my return I took the road leading to GPO only to find an old two storied building with sloping roof and set up of three wooden windows, Hotel Dilkush Vishranti Gruh was eye catching. 

Further ahead few tailor shops specialising in marine, naval and industrial uniforms and serving for last few decades or more.

Unlike during the week days when the neighbourhood is buzz but during weekend it takes a avtaar which is completely opposite to that of weekday, its peaceful and serene. So next time you land up in an area while on your stroll in Mumbai and find trees covered streets and identical architecture in building facades and you get a "London feel" then you are surely walking in the iconic precinct of Ballard Estate.