Discovering the lesser known heritage secrets of Byculla neighbourhood

Byculla in the 19th century was part of textile mills belt of Bombay, It is said that there were in total 136 mills operating in areas of Parel, Lalbaug, Byculla, Prabhadevi, Chinchpokli etc which collectively was known as "Girangaon" meaning "Village of mills". By 1982 the textile mills had started to struggle and with the famous "Greater Bombay textile strike" which lasted for 18 months,by which time most of these mills had closed down. Byculla with its neighbourhood of Nagpada, Agripada, Chinchpokli, Kamathipura and the Mazgaon docks became known for its underworld activities. Today there are no strikes, underworld activities at its near zero and what we see now are the high rise building towers. But within all this there is another side of Byculla - the 18th century Byculla .

Byculla came into existence as an extension of Mazgaon - one of the seven islands of Bombay. The low lying flat land which used to be flooded during high tide was made inhabitable by the British with Hornby Vellard project of 1784 which connected all the islands of Bombay into one mainland. The construction of Bellasis road causeway in 1793 saw many Europeans and affluent families of Mumbai shifting here in Byculla which made it into a upper middle class enclave. The famous Byculla club opened in 1833, The era saw construction of huge mansions, hotels and clubs, religious places, hospitals and educational institutions which even today are still most aesthetically brilliant edifices in the area.

Byculla was one of the original stations when Bombay Thane local train started in 1853 and it was built in 1852 a year earlier. It is said that first locomotive was brought to Mumbai by labourers who pulled it on the streets of Byculla. Byculla station is the oldest stations in India. Few years back when they dismantled a portion of old structure, old iron grill on ticket window was pulled down. I had clicked this picture then. The logo in the middle said G.I.P.R

As city of Mumbai moved from Bombay and continues to grow, Byculla has somewhere retained its heritage and charm of colonial raj. So on my weekend odysseys walk, I set out to explore some known and some lesser known heritage secrets of Byculla.

 => I started my heritage walk with Veermata Jijabai Udyan what was previously known as "Victoria Gardens" or in Hindi as "Rani Bagh". Now many would ask what is the heritage in the Zoo ? Apart from Bhau Daji Lad Museum which shares space with the garden. Well, the same questions I had before my visit. I had to write a separate blog on the heritage structures and the stories around it else this blog would have way too long :-) Here is the link

=> When passing through the Lalbaug flyover, one cannot fail to notice a tall tower literally coming out of the trees located opposite the Veermata Jijabai zoo. The tiled roof with decorated balconies and hallway with arches and pillars stands out. It was the hospital for workers of Great Indian Peninsular railway, the predecessor of Central railway. Today it is known as Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar hospital.

The building belonging to Readymoney family was the original location of Elphinstone college and was constructed in 1860. It was opened to public in 1871 and named after the first governor of Bombay. James Trubshawe was the architect who designed the building while James Adam was the engineer who built it. Decade later the college was shifted to present location in heart of Mumbai opp present day Kalaghoda art district.

Another interesting thing about the building is it also served as the initial location for premier technical institute V.J.T.I which was established in 1887. When the building become insufficient to house the growing number of students, it was moved to Matunga in 1923.

A heritage fountain is located in the gardens of this hospital.

=> At Patanwala road previously known as Connaught road, opposite to the railway hospital lies Mevawala Agiary. It was initially located in Bhendi bazaar and consecrated in 1851 by Bomanji Mevawala in memory of his son Sorabji. This Parsi gentleman had made lot of money in the business of selling dry fruits called Meva in Gujarati.

=> As I proceed to my next destination Gloria church, I came across one small church very close to the zoo entrance, named as Karnataka church or Hume memorial Victoria Garden church or Church of North India. It is 185 year old protestant church. Notable was the name of the church written in calligraphy fonts.

=> Palace talkies is one of the few single screen theatre still running is located opposite of the road. Started in 1932 by the dynamic duo Billimoria and Bharucha who have been known as theatre kings of Bombay. Far cry from its heydays, today the theatre mainly screens B grade Bhojpuri films.

=> Regal bakery and chemist shop next door opened in same year as Palace talkies created a regal affair with the talkies for the audience could visit the bakery during breaks for a chai and fresh bakery products. The bakery was known for its plum and almond cake. Some old advertisements can still be seen outside the shops.

=> A furlong ahead of Palace talkies lies the Byculla vegetable market which is one the largest markets in Mumbai. Interestingly the first wife of Dr B.R.Ambedkar used to stay with her uncle in the market after the death of her parents. She got married to B.R.Ambedkar in vegetable market in a simple ceremony for which a pandal was setup in the market itself.

=> Gloria church is one of the most beautiful churches of Mumbai known as Nossa Senhora de Gloria. The church was built between 1911-13 from its original location at Mazgaon. The origin of Gloria church can be traced to a private chapel which was built in 1548 by De souza e lima family who owned the island of Mazgaon. The chapel was pulled down to build a larger church to cater to growing populations in 1632. It underwent many restoration before it was decided to move it to present location.

The interiors of the newly built church has beautiful stained glass windows. The plaque with history of Gloria church is seen written in English as well as Portuguese.

 => Masina hospital is an important landmark hospital known run by a Parsi trust. Built in memory of Jerbai Masina - the wife of founder by her family and descendants. Originally it was residence of Jewish businessman David Sassoon known as "Sans Souci" - "without care" which was gifted to Dr  Hormasji Masina in 1907 by the owner family. It is the oldest private charitable hospital of Mumbai started in 1902. Unfortunately entry is restricted for heritage enthusiast :-(

Angels seen on one of the entrance of hospital (above) and (below) one of the gates to Masina hospital.

=> Jerbaug - While going to our next destination, we passed the gate of Parsi ghetto, Jerbaug was built in memory Bai Jerbai Naoroji Nusherwanji by Wadia trust.

=> Regina Pacis - A Institute working towards development of girls in need since 1958. It also runs a school and hostel for girl child run by community of religious of Mary Immaculate.

=> Khilafat house - It is one of the most overlooked heritage in Byculla located in a leafy street. The unassuming bungalow which today is a college providing B.Ed courses lead the Khilafat and Non cooperation movement - the two defining protest in Indian subcontinent. The 200 year old house was owned by millionaire freedom fighter Umar Sobani. The house today has old and rare photographs of Khilafat movement including that of Ali brothers who started the movement. Mohammed Ali and Shaukat Ali.

=> At the entrance of Motishah lane where Regina Pacis and Khilafat house is located, One tends to overlook two bungalows, One is house to DCP (crime) of Mumbai while other is in European architecture a private property. It flaunts a motif of Lord Krishna with his cow on the external facade.

=> Khada parsi - A 40 feet tall cast iron monument of Sir Cursetjee Maneckjee (1763-1845) who was a Parsi businessmen and education reformist.He is credited with starting the first all girls English school in India which still continues. Over 160 year old statue is perched atop a corinthian pillar with four mermaid surrounding the base and built by his son Maneckjee Cursetjee in memory of his father.

The ornamental fountain pillars with four feet tall lamps and four mermaids blowing conches at the base is unique in the sense that there are only two such cast iron statues in the world. One is in Chile while the other is located here.

=> Bombay docks explosion 1944 memorial is located in the Fire brigade HQ just opposite the Khada Parsi statue. The story goes that British navy ship Fort Stikine was docked in Bombay docks which witnessed two large explosion on afternoon of 14th April 1944. The ship was carrying 1400 tons of explosive and ammunition, large quantities of oil, cotton bales and 31 crates of gold bullion bars. The metal parts and gold was thrown over a 5kms area, some 800 people including 66 fire personal lost their lives.

A turn table ladder mounted on Leyland truck which was the only truck that served and survived the 1944 explosion is proudly displayed in the HQ compound.

Byculla is neighbourhood full of churches, From fire brigade HQ if one takes the Shaikh Hafizuddin marg it takes you to Agripada locality, one can find at least three churches on the route.

=> Robinson Memorial methodist central church - The foundation stone of the building was laid in october of 1923.

=> Some other important heritage institutions include St Joseph High school which was built in 1915 and St Joseph home and nursery which was built in 1875. The Salvation army church and TSA Youth women hostel which are Protestant Christian institutes. Then there is University settlement building which has nothing to do with University but it is a charitable organisation trust building providing hostel facilities.

Direction compass at the entrance of the building.

=> Further ahead another church which provides services in Marathi - St Andrew's Marathi church.

From Khada Parsi statue if we take the Mirza Galib road which takes us to Nagpada then

=> At the entrance of Mirza Ghalib road lies a heritage house called "League of Mercy child - The Shelter".The bungalow originally was meant for unmarried Anglo mothers and their children, testimony of wild oats sowed by Britishers, Many Anglo Indian girls seeked refuge here.Later years it was restricted to only destitute girl child only. It was an orphanage operating till few years back. It is now closed permanently.

=> Further ahead lies the Christ Church compound which houses school and 185 year old church. The church was built on the land given by Bombay Education society and was built in 1833. It was the brain child of Bombay governor Sir Monstuart Elphinstone. He had a mansion outside the fort walls in "country side" which is present day Mazgaon & Byculla and wanted a chapel nearby. The church fulfilled his needs.

The corinthian pillars seen in front entrance and also in prayer halls were meant for Town hall assembly room but were gifted to the church. The church has stained glasses alter and wartime heroes and administrators of East India company memorials just like in St Thomas cathedral in Fort area.

=> Moving ahead we cross the American Express Bakery building, It was started in 1908 by Francesco Carvalho at Falkland rd - Grant road, The bakery was known for its speedy delivery of its products to American cruise ships which gave it a nickname "American express" and the name stuck...and was called American Express Bakery. It relocated to Byculla in 1935 and AEB house has been its HQ since then

The AEB house is unique heritage building as it is the last known wrought iron building in Mumbai.

=> Next is Taylor Methodist church which is oldest and biggest Methodist church in Mumbai, It was consecrated in 1906. The church pointed steeple is a landmark of the area and was built in Gothic revival architecture which was the popular style in 19th century.

=> Convent of Jesus and Mary (1850) - Run by Roman Catholic missionaries, They runs network of educational institutes in Byculla and in Mumbai some of which are over 150 years old in Mumbai.

=> At the other end of Mirza Galib road at Nagpada junction lies the original location of Khada Parsi statue and the junction itself was known as Khada Parsi junction, It was moved to present location when the statue became a hindrance in managing growing traffic with population increase.

Old pictures of the junction show the Memani building with its clock tower which is missing today.Few structures like the Sarvi hotel and Rolex hotel which is seen in old pictures still exist albeit in peeled off and dilapidated condition. Sarvi was known as Kebab hotel and famous for its lip smacking kebabs.

Byculla once was home to sizeable Jews population which prompted the Sir David Sassoon to construct a synagogue in 1864 called Magen David Synagogue in Victorian style. In 1910 synagogue was expanded with help from David's grandson. There were two Jewish school in the compound which was meant for Jews childrens, Later when Jews migrated to Israel or other areas the school opened to children of all community.

At the corner of the road lies the a municipal garden - Padmakar Tukaram Mane garden which was once Jews cemetery. While gardening, a tombstone with Star of David and inscription in Hebrew and Marathi was found. The memorial tombstone lies graved on the wall outside the garden gate.

A giant mural of Mirza Ghalib engraved on the wall at the corner of the street is probably the only connection the famed poet had with Mumbai, The mural has given the name to the street.

I ended my long walk at this mural, promising myself to explore the other areas of Byculla for more heritage and stories around it. The 19th century Byculla was cosmopolitan hub with Jews, Parsis, Catholics, Hindus, Muslims residing in the neighbourhood which is seen in numerous heritage that I have covered. But many would not know that apart from above communities, Byculla was also the hub of Armenian community and probably the "only" Armenian neighbourhood of Bombay.

My weekend odysseys walk was done in two parts, one I did on my own and other was with IHW festival organised walk which was lead by local resident and an expert historian Lubna Rafiq.