Exploring the original Bombay Green - Horniman circle precinct of Mumbai
Mumbai is today the mega metropolitan city but if we move back 200 years then it was a group of seven islands, somewhere in 1821 a tiny green space in middle of walled fort of Bombay became the roots from where the city started to grow. Today Horniman circle garden comprising of 12081 sq yards of an area is surrounded by office buildings of major financial institutions which was the nerve centre of financial capital of India.
But historically the space was the original "Bombay green" where cotton and opium traders would bring their merchandise to trade. It is also historical place in 1851 when 22 traders would gather under a Banyan tree to trade and laid foundation of "Native share and stock brokers association" which eventually become Bombay Stock Exchange in 1875 and moved to permanent location nearby which is today known as Dalal Street. With the formation of cotton exchange at Cotton green, the cotton traders moved out in 1844. The Bombay green area was a dump of debris and coconut shells as buildings had started to be build in the area and this is when the Police commissioner Charles Forjett supported by the governor Lord Elphinstone and Sir Bartle Frere decided to convert the green into a garden surrounded by buildings, 1n 1869 walkways were laid, trees planted and garden was completed in 1872 which came to be known as "Elphinstone circle".
On one of the Sunday I set out to explore this precinct of erstwhile Bombay to uncover the hidden heritage and tales around it. Starting from the fountain which is today the landmark of Mumbai - Flora Fountain. Built in 1864, The fountain stands at the exact location where one of the gates of walled fort of Bombay stood. It is named after Greek goddess Flora. (Fountains and Pyaavs of Bombay)
Further down the Veer Nariman street which connects Flora fountain to Horniman circle is a mansion called "Ready money mansion". Interesting tale about this mansion is that it was a former residence of Cowasji Jehangir family who became pioneers of lucrative Opium trade in China. They become so cash rich that they were bankers to various British clients which earned them the sobriquet "Readymoney" which they adopted later as their surname. The flooring tiles in this building made by 100 year old Bharat flooring tiles company which has graced the flooring tiles of many art deco buildings. Readymoney was the first building where the tiles of this company were fitted but since it didn't turn out to meet the exacting standard, the first batch of B&W tiles were dumped into the sea by the Parsi owner P.Sidhwa.
The entrance of Churchgate house building proudly displays two oxen and its neighbour bldg has a Ship protruding at the entrance facade.These motifs are the most interesting things on colonial era buildings, they depict some tale around the building or its owner.
At a four street junction, On the left lies one of the most beautiful building in Horniman circle precinct, Its the 1913 built HSBC middle east building which was the erstwhile headquarters of British bank of middle east taken over by HSBC. The Victorian neo classical architectural building with limestone and basalt facade and arched walkway on its ground floor are a visual treat.
On the right hand side is the St Thomas Cathedral, 300 years old church named after St Thomas the apostle. It is also the oldest Anglican church in Bombay whose foundation stone was laid in 1676 and consecrated in 1718. This landmark of Mumbai was considered the zero point or the nerve centre from where 16 milestones were laid across Mumbai. One of the gates of the Bombay fort was the entrance to the church and hence the western railway station got the name "Churchgate".
The interiors of the church is very beautiful with walls filled with epitaphs of soldiers who died in the war fighting the British army and their spouses. The church also has memorial of the first bishop of Bombay.
The stained glasses in the church are every beautiful and were designed by artist from England.
There is very ornate fountain at the entrance of the church which was donated by Parsi philanthropist Cowasji Jehangir who also used to reside a stone throw away from the church.
Next to HSBC is the 100 year old building known as Brady House which is the headquarters of listed company on the stock exchange W.H Brady & co ltd. It yet another beautiful building with artistic awnings over its numerous windows on external facade. The building was in news recently for wrong reason when the PNB branch involved in Nirav Modi scam was based in this building.
Elphinstone building stand next to Brady house with its arched walkway, A fine example of Venetian Gothic architecture designed by Reinziw Walton in 19th century. The external facade shows different types of stones used with different colours. The building was named after governor of Bombay - Montstuart Elphinstone. Starbucks opened its first coffee shop in India in this building while another Tata group company CROMA has electronics showroom as well.
At the corner of Parsi bazaar street lies a red bricks building which is home to the oldest continuously running newspaper - Mumbai Samachar - a leading Gujarati daily since 1822. The paper passed through various owners before it came under the ownership of Cama family who today runs the paper since 1933.
The 18th century Horniman circle garden stands at end of Veer Nariman road, It is surrounded by colonial era buildings in a circle which houses most of the banks. The park was a regular venue for Parsi community social gatherings during the 18th and 19th century and a band used to play every evening at the park. There is hidden well under the garden which served the cotton and opium traders in 1840's and before. It lay hidden for almost 150 years when it was rediscovered again few years later during the restoration work on heritage fountain which stands outside the garden gate.
Today the well is grill fenced and a trap door with steps leading to the well is covered but still being used to supply water to the garden and nearby buildings by tankers.
One stone is worshipped inside the Horniman circle garden.
The last remaining Banyan tree in the vicinity when once upon a time there was a groove of Banyan trees.
The Elphinstone circle buildings around the garden many of which are head offices of leading national banks have arched walkway on their ground floor. Each arches have grumpy and bearded face which differs from the next. None of the grumpy faces are similar.
The last remaining Banyan tree in the vicinity when once upon a time there was a groove of Banyan trees.
The Elphinstone circle buildings around the garden many of which are head offices of leading national banks have arched walkway on their ground floor. Each arches have grumpy and bearded face which differs from the next. None of the grumpy faces are similar.
The name Elphinstone circle was changed to Horniman circle post Independence in honour of Benjamin Horniman who was the editor of The Bombay Chronicle newspaper, A British who supported India's Independence and was the first to publish stories of Jallianwala Baug massacre which brought world attention to British atrocities in India.
At the east end of the Horniman circle garden lies the town hall which houses Asiatic society library, The steps have been popular in movies and today a favorite spot for pre-wedding photo shoots. The white painted classical facade is supported by eight doric columns. The steps are transformed into grandstand seating during the Music festivals which happens in winters every year. The library is home to many rare books and ancient manuscripts from across the world.
Next to Asiatic Library lies the Old Customs house, An old cannon stands guard as part of beautification of the building. Interesting about this old customs house was once it had a department called "an imperial opium" dept as well as "salt" department headed by commissioner of customs. These two commodities were exported from the ports.
Two huge cannons stand guard behind the town hall at the exit gate of INS Angre but it being a high security zone and outsiders are not allowed to go nearer. Also one of the oldest structures in Bombay probably from Portuguese era lies behind the town hall in naval property. Known an "Manor house" which was the residence of first governors of Bombay. It has been rarely photographed and rarely written about. The story goes that Portuguese had leased the manor to a Spanish Jew Garcia De Orta originally. The manor fell into the hands of East India company when the islands came under British hands who built fortification around the Bombay Castle or Manor House. The gate through which one enters Bombay castle has two friezes of Portuguese soldiers holding the world in their hand. (This information appeared in an article published in Livemint)
The logo of Imperial bank can still be seen on the windows of the building.
Next to State bank building lies Allahabad bank in gothic architecture. What was eye catching is the motif at the top of the building.
Opposite of both the bank building lies the massive Raja Bahadur Mansion which was built in 1889 and owned by Raj Bahadur. The prominent commercial building with few newly built restaurants has continuous verandah on front elevation with wooden design, brackets and balustrade balconies.
This brings an end to my heritage walk exploring the Horniman circle precinct, When in this area, You just cant miss out on the famous vadapav at Hotel Dwarka or chaat and sandwiches stall opposite to the hotel serving from last few decades or more and that is where I headed after my walk. :-)
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