Shaniwar Wada : The historical fortification in the city and pride of Pune

Shaniwar Wada: The historical fortification in heart of old city and pride of Pune, My walk exploring the historic monument.

It is said that the inspiration of building "Shaniwar Wada" came to Peshwa Bajirao when he saw a rabbit chasing a dog at the same place where the palace stands today. This palace was the greatest seat of power of the Peshwas of Maratha empire until 1818 and became the center of Indian politics in the 18th century. 

Pune was the hub or a junction for trade routes which prompted Bajirao to move his seat from neighboring Saswad to Pune. He entrusted his younger brother Chimaji Appa to built a Palace at the same spot where he saw the rabbit chasing the dog. Shaniwarwada was a seven storied structure supposed to be made of stone but since stone monuments could be built by the ruler only and not the Peshwa it was decided to have the base floor of stone while the remaining floors were made of bricks and timber. 

It is said that after the defeat of Peshwas in Anglo Maratha war, Britishers to demean the Marathas used the palace to house prisoners and made it into a Jail, for some years it also acted as mental asylum and when they had used it for 10 years, Britishers destroyed it by fire. The unexplained fire which engulfed Shaniwarwada in 1828 is said to be a deliberately put by Britishers. What we see today as the intact structure of the Palace is the stone base which remained intact till date while the upper floors had been destroyed in the fire. 

At the height of glory of Maratha empire, some 1000 people used to stay in Shaniwar wada. The original seven storied structure built by Bajirao-1 was extended by other Peshwas who succeeded him in later years till in 1818 the last Peshwa Bajirao - 2 abdicated the throne to East India company and went into exile.

Some of the attractions still seen are intact walls of the fortress as well the five gates to enter the wada. 

Dilli Darwaza: If the intact walls of the historical structure in the middle of the city is intimidating then the massive door through which we enter the palace today is even more intimidating. It was built big enough to let the elephant pass through. The sharp spikes on the door that is seen is to ward off any unwanted intrution or uninvited guest. The name Dilli Darwaza is because it is facing North and shows the ambitions of Marathas to rule Delhi. 

As one enters the door, there is a sharp right and then a sharp left, this would prevent any charging army and allow defending army to launch a counter attack. It is said that the contractor who built the fortress palace were from Rajasthan and hence as soon as one enters the gate, there are fresco paintings depicting the stories of Ramayana and Mahabharata and also now a faded fresco of Ganesha in Peshwa style. 

  

Top of Dilli Darwaza housed the nagarkhana with rooms to keep the musical instruments. It is said that Maratha army would march and be received back from this gate in ceremonial manner. 

Inverted Lotus flower

Next to Dilli Darwaza lies another gate known as Mastani Gate. This was the gate used by Mastani - the 2nd wife of Bajirao one, who would use this gate to enter the perimeter wall and into the Palace. A special palace was built for her next to the gate inside the walled compound. 

Khidki Darwaza: This door was used by soldiers who used to stay inside the palace. See the smaller door within the larger door. 

Tub to wash the feet before entering the important sections of the palace

Ganesh Darwaza: The door gets its name from the Ganesh temple outside the walled compound. It is known as Peshwa Ganesh Mandir. Also the door was used by ladies to visit the oldest temple in old city and also gram devta of Pune - Kasba Ganpati, The temple is located close by.

Narayan Darwaza is the door facing south, It was used by concubines to enter. It was the same door through which the corpse of Peshwa Narayanrao was taken out for cremation after he was killed by the soldiers.

Some important buildings in the Palace included Thoriya Rayancha Diwankhana (reception hall of Bajirao 1), Naachacha Diwankhana (Dance hall), Juna Arsa hall (Mirror hall) etc. Apart from this, other Peshwa after Bajirao added their own Palaces like Madhavrao and Narayan rao. Sadly only the stone plinth of all these buildings remain. All important places have been marked with information plate today for general public, the grandeur of the palace can only be visualised unfortunately.

part of Arsa hall

Royal bath

Fountains of wada: Their are numerous fountains constructed inside the complex but the highlight among them all is the impressive lotus shaped fountain "Hazari Karanje" or the "Fountain of thousand jets" . This was constructed for the infant Sawai Madhavrao Peshwa. It was designed a sixteen petal lotus with each petal having sixteen jets. The water was brought through stone pipes from Katraj lake. 

This type is just one of two found in the world

portion of stone pipes 

Historians have records which prove that the entire palace was a magnificient structure, A hundred dancers would dance at one time in the main Diwankhana and it was flanked by fountains and flower gardens.

The courtyard with fountains and garden

The rooms built in the walls was used by the soldiers for stay.

The bump in the stone was caused by the cannon fire created by Britishers.

The circumambulate of the entire structure can be walked on the walls, seen here is the buruj with flag post. Marathas had flag post on the sides unlike the Britishers who started the trend of having flag post in the middle of the structure or the building.

Some other interesting things noticed in the Palatial wada:

These holes in the ground which are found at many places was used to drain the rain water.

At the entrance lies this Maratha cannon inverted in the ground, while the smaller ones are the British cannons on the sides.

The stone grooves was used to hold the timber pillars and higher floors along with bricks wall.

Stone hook to tie the horses.

This unique structure is actually a "Waterfall tank" where the water would fall from the stone pipe, giving an illusion of a waterfall and the grooves in the wall was used to light diyas.

Haunted stories of the Palace: The fort witnessed brutal killing of grandson of Bajirao 1, Narayanrao at the hands of his uncle and his soldiers inside the palace, The screams of Narayanrao can be heard even today on full moon night by locals staying near by.

Also Sawai Madhavrao Peshwa committed suicide by jumping from higher floor of his palace inside the walled compound.

Best time to visit: It is advisable to visit it early morning as crowd is less.