Exploring the ancient port town of "Agashe" which even predates Mumbai

History: The history of the Vasai-Virar region goes back beyond the 8th century, The port town of Sopara is well documented. Buddhist relics of Sopara, the 5th-century temple of Shankaracharya at Nirmal is a testimonial to the area being an important pilgrimage centre and the Vaitarna river was considered sacred. Vaitarna river opens into the sea near Agashe and Ulhas river has its mouth near Vasai creek. Agashe in medieval time was situated in the northern end of the large island which contained Sopara in the centre and Vasai on its southern end. This island was separated from the mainland by a creek. With the creek getting silted near Sopara over many years, Agashe village gained importance which had a good connection with the forested hinterland via the Vaitarna river. 

The region has been controlled by various dynasties like Satavahana's, Deogiri Yadava's, Shilahara's to name a few which is prior to the advent of the Gujarat Sultanate, Then came Portuguese, Marathas and ultimately the Britishers. With the downfall of Sopara, Agashe became one of the important port and a shipbuilding centre with a forested hinterland providing easy access to timber and a sleepy village grew into a mercantile port town. With the fall of Gujarat kings, the Vasai Virar region came into the hands of Muslim rulers of the Gujarat Sultanate who built the fort of Arnala to protect Agashe. 

With the victory of the Portuguese over the Sultanate in 1502 in the battle of Diu, the Portuguese destroyed and burned down the town of Agashe with 300 boats of Sultans fleet. Now imagine the importance of Agashe at that time. Shipbuilding was the main activity in Agashi even during the Portuguese reign and ships were so well made that they would sail as far as Europe. Timber and building stone were exported from here to Goa for building churches and military buildings. During the mid-1800 the port of Agashi also started silting up which prohibited the entry of large ships and with the development of Bombay as a port town, the importance of Agashe decreased significantly. Agashe shifted to the agrarian economy with the closing of its port and shipbuilding activities in the 19th century and later. 

Agashe Talav and its precinct: Agashe tank or talav as it is called was built by a relation of the ruler of Miraj in 1691. The tank waters were supposed to be known to have miraculous healing powers. It was also an important pilgrimage centre before the Portuguese stopped the practice. There is also a mention about another tank in the vicinity which was filled by Portuguese and church was built on it. 

Since the talav was an important pilgrimage centre, temples were constructed near it. Hanuman Mandir and Bhavani Shankar Mandir were two important and oldest temples built around 1691. It was constructed by Shankarji Keshav Phadke who was the subedar of Vasai. These temples exist even today though the old structure has given away to newer construction the main idol and sanctum or the Garba griha have been kept intact. 

Today Hanuman temple is the first structure that one notices which is adjoining the Talav. The temple was reconstructed in 2015. The earlier temple structure was made of wood and had a typical Kokan style of architecture but the newer temple is made of stone. Two monkey dwarpal's adorn the entrance of the newer temple. The main deity of Hanuman is colourful and is more than 4 feet tall idol carved on stone. Female form Lord Shani can be seen at the feet of Hanuman.

Sarvajanik Vachnalay: This public library was rebuilt in 1939 but originally built in 1914 by Seth Prabhudas Bhagvandas. It was part of the Hanuman temple structure before being relocated to its current location which is next to the Hanuman temple. The two-storeyed structure has one set of the balcony overlooking the street and the other at Agashe Talav. Balconies are supported by wooden brackets and have a sloping roof.

Talav: Talav has been de-silted and beautification is done around its perimeter by a local municipal body. Some ancient stones with flower design and a deity carved on a couple can be seen on the walls of the talav. 

Bhavani Shankar Temple: The Shiva temple also dates back to 1691 when it was constructed along with the Hanuman mandir. Here also the original temple structure which was made of wood and in Konkan style has been replaced with newer construction. Thankfully the sanctum which is a fort-like structure made of stone has been kept intact. Ganesh idol and idol of Goddess adorn the entrance of the sanctum. 

The inner shrine has Shiva Linga which is protected by the Nandi idol outside the entrance. Another idol of Goddess Shakti or Parvati is seen inside the sanctum. Next to the Nandi idol there lies another Shiva Linga which is made of marble and Linga is four-faced Shiva. This marble Shiv linga looks really beautiful.

There are carvings of floral design, elephants and peacock on the stones on the exterior wall of the sanctum structure. Also, there is a stone carved with a cow moving its head. This type of stone has been seen in different temples across India and is the earliest example of animation carved on stone.

In the temple compound, a newer deepstambh has been built, the earlier structure has been removed. 

There is another smaller shrine of Goddess Sitla Devi which is also an old structure. Next to this temple lies 5 square-shaped platform with a print of paduka's carved on the stone at the top. These are samadhis of religious monks. This again proves the place was an important pilgrimage centre in the past.

Maratha style Wada: As one moved inwards on the lane, there was once a Peshwa guest house which was then home to a family of Khanolkar's. But today the entire structure has been taken down and a new house is being constructed by the Khanolkar family. Just opposite Khanolkar Wada lies another Wada called Joshi Wada. It's a dilapidated structure today. 

There is another old wada house in the lane which is today converted into a printing press.

Ram Mandir of Garde family: Built-in 1885, this Ram Mandir structure has been kept intact except the entrance has been rebuilt. The temple is a private property of the Garde family which is scattered now all over Mumbai and abroad. On my interactions with local, they informed that Garde family today boast of over 250 members. They maintain and renovate the temple every 2 years. The temple is closed for the public and is opened on the last Thursday of every month in the morning for bhajan and prayers. And on Ram Navami festival it opens for 10 days for the general public.

Vishnu temple: Next to Ram Mandir lies this another temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The temple has been recently painted but the wooden structure is intact. The temple built in Peshwa style of architecture is situated on a plint with heavy use of wood on the exterior and interior of the building. The Interior of the temple has a wooden post, pillars and wooden frames. The sanctum is newer construction with idols of different god and goddess including Vishnu is really adorable. All the idols seem to have a glow and a smiling face. 

The entire lane starting from Hanuman Mandir was known as "Dev Ali" due to the presence of five temples in one lane. The lane ends at the big open ground which was known as Bhati Bunder. Not many would know today that after Agashe village importance as shipbuilding port got reduced, One was still able to sail into the open sea with smaller boats from here at Bhati Bunder. 

Old styled door with a latch on top to put the lock

Bhati Bunder got reduced to a small stream in the late 19th century and unfortunately once a port is now a dirty stream or a nullah. Even locals are not aware that the place was a prominent port once upon a time. What remains is just the name "Bhati Bunder".

Chalpeth Road: The road opposite Dev Ali known as Chalpeth road was developed during the Maratha period when Chimaji Appa conquered the fort of Vasai from the Portuguese and Agashe village came under Maratha rule. Most of the houses built during Maratha rule were located on this Chalpeth road. 

Many of the old wada styled houses can still be seen though most of them are closed and lie in dilapidated conditions. Many newer constructions can be seen on this road today but once it was predominantly Marathi Hindus and Jain Bania traders who occupied the houses on the road. Today this road extends further towards Vasai. 

One of the prominent wadas on the road was called "Shakuntala Wada". The Wada contained 3-4 one-storied buildings which still exist today within the compound. Though the occupants are the caretaker's family residing in it today.

Jain Temple of Agashe:  Agashe became an important Jain centre due to the presence of 400 years old Jain temple dedicated to Lord Parasnath, The temple was constructed by one trader named Motilal - a Vani of Bombay. Though the temple was constructed many times, the main idol is said to be from the 11th century. Today the old Jain temple has been completely rebuilt in marble stone. 

The jain community have occupied nearby land and built huge stay facilities for pilgrims visiting the place. Also, another huge Jain temple has been constructed nearby. 

Zilla Parishad school:  This school constructed in 1886 catered mainly to children's of socially weaker sections of society. The L shaped building has a sloping roof with wooden doors and windows and an open verandah in the centre.

Till some 10-15 years back, a lot of these structures around the village had the old construction dating back to at least 100 -150 years. Most of them have been swept away today in urbanisation, some of the main prominent Wada houses of the village like Phadke Wada or the Khanolkar Wada have been completely lost to new high rise buildings. 

St James Church: Originally built in 1568 by the Portuguese, It was the first church built outside the Vasai fort. During the Maratha rule, It was burnt down in 1739 and rebuilt in 1760. It underwent reconstruction in the 19th century to its present structure.

Some more heritage structures that I noticed as I walked into Agashe village. As seen during the old Panvel walk, Here also the lane or a street is known as "Aali" like Bhandar aali & Dev aali.

Like many other heritage areas of the city, we have lost another important heritage in Agashe village with a wave of constructions in spite of heritage committees formed and extensive research and documentation did on heritage around the Agashe Talav precinct. It's understandable when private property is developed but important heritage sites like temples and public buildings at-least should have retained it's heritage edge and showcased it to our newer generation.