Exploring the traditional Kushti Akhara's of Nathdwara.

Most countries have their own traditional style of wrestling. In India mud wrestling also known as "Kushti" is more than 3000 years old traditional Indian sport. Traditional Indian wrestling isn't just a sport but a subculture where wrestlers used to live and train under their guru known as Ustad in the "Akhara's" and followed strict rules on everything including what they eat to what they do in their spare time. The focus was on living a pure life, building strength, and honing the skills. Drinking, smoking, and sex was off-limits for the wrestlers who used to stay in the Akharas. 

Wrestling akhara's also got a mention in the Mahabharata Epic, Legendary wrestler's in Mahabharta included Lord Krishna, Jarasanga, Bhima, Lord Hanuman, Krishna's brother - Balarama and there were many more who were masters of this sport. Kushti was a sport that holds great importance in Indian society in the past but today with the adoption of western culture, Gymnasiums have replaced the traditional akhara's where kushti was practiced and played. The popularity of the sport has decreased tremendously and akharas have slowly disappeared. But still, certain pockets in India have continued to practice kushti even though the future looks bleak and quite uncertain. 

On my recent visit to Nathdwara town near Udaipur in the Mewar region of Rajasthan, I stumbled upon these akhara's who have continued this tradition of practicing and teaching the traditional form of Kushti. They still exist in nooks and corners, discreetly continuing the tradition without any fancy advertisement like the ones we have for gymnasiums. I was quite surprised to know that there are over 40 such akharas scattered in Nathdwara town alone. 

Akhara now abandoned 

Once upon a time, there were more than 100 such akharas across the town but their numbers have come down now. People with interest in kushti come in the morning and on holidays to practice while the rest of the day there are volunteers who provide service in up-keeping of the place. My interaction with a few volunteers and caretakers in these akhara's provided me with deep insight into the functioning and up-keeping of these traditional schools of wrestling.

One of the few akharas that I had a chance to visit in Nathdwara town was "Ambavada Akhara". This school lies on the old road connecting the Shreenathji gaushala with the town. The place is nothing short of a small oasis of peace away from the hustle and bustle of the temple town. Except for the wrestlers and volunteers, they don't usually get any visitors. In fact, they were quite surprised when I requested them for a sneak peek into the traditional school of wrestling. 

As I entered the akhara, I could see volunteers involved in sweeping the floor of the school. The place was very clean and neat. Neem and other trees provided shade where a couple of people were taking a rest. The akhara had a small room for a stay where the ustad or the so-called Guru of the akhara stayed. 

Every akhara would surely have a temple shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman. Lord Hanuman is worshiped by all wrestlers. Next to the temple lay the covered arena which was a foot deeper than the ground and was covered in brown soil. This is the arena where kushti is practiced every day in the morning. The arena soil is plowed and watered daily to keep it loose and it is akin to worshiping the place. They even put ghee and other ingredients in the soil. 

Ambavada akhara also has a natural spring and three different step-wells inside the compound. The natural spring keeps the water flowing in the step-well continuously throughout the year. 

Stone grinder used for making Bhang paste

On the same road, opp the Ambavada akhara lies another akhara which was now closed and lay defunct. But next to the defunct akhara was another active one known as "Shreenath Brijwasi Akhara". This akhara was under the administration of  Shreenathji temple in Nathdwara town.

Even this akhara had a temple shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The mud arena lay outside the shrine. During my visit, one volunteer was providing his service by plowing the soil of the arena. He informed me that for practice, Akhara's have traditional equipment's like nal, garnal (neck weight), gada (mace), etc, These equipment's are fairly simple but effective, but now they also have some newer equipment's as well which are also found in new age gyms. 

On the auspicious 2nd day of Shukla Paksha of Ashadh month in the Hindu calendar is when there are competitions held in all these Akharas. Competitions are held between two schools or among the wrestlers of the same school.

Another akhara is located on Delhi bazaar road just ahead of Radha Kund. There is a stepwell or a kund ahead of the entrance which camouflages the entrance to the akhara. The caretaker of the akhara is a baba who told me that he is studying in Nathdwara and stays at the akhara as a caretaker. The entrance has two muscle men painting holding a gada (mace). 

The akhara has a Hanuman shrine and wrestling arena. During my visit, two wrestlers were making a paste of Bhang leaves with pepper, Bhang is consumed commonly with milk preparations called Thandai in Rajasthan.

Just behind the Pritam poli gate of Shreenathji temple, I had a chance to visit two more such schools namely Vaikunth akhara and Kali Maa akhara which were more or less similar to other akhara's that I had visited. 

There are many more akhara's in town which continue with the traditional sports, with changing time some now call themselves "Vyayam Shala" Hindi word for gymnasium but inside the compound they still have traditional equipment's, Pehalwan or Ustad continue to teach the traditional wrestling sport of kushti to whoever is interested. Ustad may not emphasize the life of discipline or celibacy.

Another Akhara in an abandoned state

As modernity sweeps India, more and more western sports are adopted, These traditional wrestling schools or akharas are getting abandoned, But even when their future looks bleak there are many small towns and villages across India which are continuing the tradition and are still maintaining the old ways.