A walk to explore the neighbourhood heritage - Mahim suburb & around
So on one of the weekends, I decided to explore the suburb of Mahim which is considered to be the heart of Mumbai. Originally one of the seven islands of Mumbai, Mahim has a chequered and a romantic history dating back to 12-13th century. It was the capital of Raja Bhimdev who reigned over the region in 13th century. It has been known historically with different names like Mahimawati, Mejambu, Maijim and also Mahikavati.
My first destination on mind was St Michael's church which is one the oldest church of Portuguese Franciscan order. It was first built in 1534 and was known as San Miguel. It has been rebuilt many times since and the present structure dates back to 1973. Today the church famously known as "Mahim Church" is known for novena prayers held on each Wednesday.
It is interesting to note that when Marathas conquered Salsette island in 1739, Portuguese destroyed Our Lady of Mount Mary chapel in Bandra at the behest of British to keep the location secret. At this time the church was home to the image of "Blessed virgin" from the chapel till it was moved back in 1761.
The church is home to a rare hand painted version of original iconic painting of "Our lady of Perpetual succor" gifted by the Vatican.
As I walked from Tulsi pipe road to Mori road towards the church, I noticed a marble signage outside Navjivan society, The society maintains a signage at the entrance which states that the foundation of Mahim colony was laid in 1939 by then finance minister of India - Morarji Desai.
Another interesting aspect of this society and its connection with history is that it is now named as "Jethiben colony". Jethiben was Kumari Jethi Tulsidas Sipahimalani - A Sindhi politician who fought in Quit India movement and was elected unopposed in Sindh legislative assembly twice, moved to Bombay after partition and worked for middle class Sindhi family who were affected by partition and were staying military barracks. She established four societies in Mahim, Matunga, Lamington Road and Chembur and settled Sindhi Hindus who moved after partition to Mumbai.
Another interesting aspect of this society and its connection with history is that it is now named as "Jethiben colony". Jethiben was Kumari Jethi Tulsidas Sipahimalani - A Sindhi politician who fought in Quit India movement and was elected unopposed in Sindh legislative assembly twice, moved to Bombay after partition and worked for middle class Sindhi family who were affected by partition and were staying military barracks. She established four societies in Mahim, Matunga, Lamington Road and Chembur and settled Sindhi Hindus who moved after partition to Mumbai.
Tulsi pipe road is one the three roads built by British and the purpose was to connect South Mumbai to the Northern suburbs when they opened Mahim to be developed as suburb in 1913.
Mahim upholds the value of secularism and diversity, One can find temples, church, Parsi fire temples as well Masjid and Dargah existing a few meters from each other. Taking a diversion from Mori road onto Soonawala road, I come across the fire temple or an Agiary - Soonawala Agiary, It seemed to have been renovated recently. Two Lamassu - the protective deity with Lions body with wings guarding the Parsi shrine.
A very interesting story I read related to this Agiary goes that when Britishers left the Red sea port city of Aden, in Arabian peninsula, all foreigners including Parsis decided to leave the city. Aden was home to Fire temple built by Cowasjee Dinshaw family in 1883. With no one to take care of Holy Atash it was decided to move the holy fire to Mumbai via a special Air India plane, The Soonawala Agiary was home to this holy fire for a brief period before it was moved to final destination in Adenwala Agiary at Lonavala.
How a special Air India plane transported the holy fire is in the link (Holy fire journey).
Right across the Mahim church is reti bunder or Mahim causeway beach. At the entrance one does not fail to notice some old houses which lies in close & abandoned state. Closer look at the notice board reads that the property comes under Mumbai dept of excise and customs. It is said there used to be a custom's chowky here once upon a time.
Mahim causeway bunder is home to biggest bamboo market in Mumbai. The market is over 150 years old. Bamboos of different species are bought from various parts of India and then half of them is exported to Middle east and other countries. Huge piles of Bamboo is stocked by dealers in this market. During 1992 communal tensions in Mumbai, this market was completely burnt down and destroyed. It was closed for few years then but today it is up and running again. One of the dealers "Haji Dawood Haji Abdullah and Sons" is the oldest shop in the market dating back to 1887.
Mahim Fort: The origin of Mahim fort is disputable for it was first captured by Portuguese in 1516 after defeating the commander of Mahim fort. It was passed in the hands of British when the islands of Mumbai was given as dowry. Thomas Grantham - British naval commander strengthened the ramparts in 1684 and it became a strategic watch tower. It is said that it had 100 soldiers and 30 cannons on guard when Portuguese attacked it again in 1772. The Britishers repelled the attack from Bandra fort during which Mount Mary Basilica was damaged in the encounter.
Today the fort has been encroached completely and lies in state of disrepair.
On the way to Mahim dargah from Mahim causeway, One finds a beautiful old building coloured in blue shade. That is Mahim Police station in a heritage building built in 1923. The police station is famous for two things. It is said that some personal belongings of Mahim Saint like his pair of chappal's, hand written holy book of Quran etc are preserved here and is opened once a year for a public viewing.
Apart from this the police station is famous for the priceless pillar art - Sculptures dating back 10th to 12th century AD adorn the base of four pillars. It is said they were found at Mahim fort. One of the sculpture is that of Dikpal - One of the eight deity which protects the eight corners of earth as per Hindu mythology.
2nd stone looks like some remnant of temple pillar part.
while 3rd stone is a priceless "Herostone or Veergal" depicting a naval battle. The three panel stone shows a naval ship with the body of martyr and his wife in the third panel.
4th stone is a beautiful sculpture of Hanuman.
Mahim Dargah: Makhdoom Ali Mahimi Shafii was a saint and scholar of international repute. It is said that he was born in 12th century in family of Arab travellers who had settled in Mahim. He is known to have authored 100 books out of which only names of 21 books are known and 10 of these books can be found in different libraries of India. After his death in 1431, he was buried in Mahim, the site become a dargah for his devotees which stands even today.
The Mahim Saint has some connection with Mahim Police. Legend says that one of the police man gave water to the dying saint while others narrate a story of how an old man helped Mahim police in fighting smugglers. They say the old man was the Saint himself. Whatever may be the truth but during the 10 days of Urs festival. A procession leaves Mahim Police station with 2 policemen from each police station of Mumbai and they offer a "Chaddar" or shawl at the tomb of the Saint on the first day of the festival every year.
The best part about Heritage walks is that you get to explore that other side of your neighbourhood which is full of interesting stories surrounding the place, helps you connect the historical dots if any and also helps find some priceless heritage. These stories and places just needs to be highlighted so we can preserve them in a better way and be proud of having them in our maximum city. In my few hours of walk, I was able to explore so many places which was pleasantly surprising and yet there are many more stories and many more places that is waiting to be explored and be highlighted.
My heritage walk continues in next post ( Mahim walk - part 2 )
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| Old building near the fort |
On the way to Mahim dargah from Mahim causeway, One finds a beautiful old building coloured in blue shade. That is Mahim Police station in a heritage building built in 1923. The police station is famous for two things. It is said that some personal belongings of Mahim Saint like his pair of chappal's, hand written holy book of Quran etc are preserved here and is opened once a year for a public viewing.
Apart from this the police station is famous for the priceless pillar art - Sculptures dating back 10th to 12th century AD adorn the base of four pillars. It is said they were found at Mahim fort. One of the sculpture is that of Dikpal - One of the eight deity which protects the eight corners of earth as per Hindu mythology.
2nd stone looks like some remnant of temple pillar part.
while 3rd stone is a priceless "Herostone or Veergal" depicting a naval battle. The three panel stone shows a naval ship with the body of martyr and his wife in the third panel.
4th stone is a beautiful sculpture of Hanuman.
Mahim Dargah: Makhdoom Ali Mahimi Shafii was a saint and scholar of international repute. It is said that he was born in 12th century in family of Arab travellers who had settled in Mahim. He is known to have authored 100 books out of which only names of 21 books are known and 10 of these books can be found in different libraries of India. After his death in 1431, he was buried in Mahim, the site become a dargah for his devotees which stands even today.
The Mahim Saint has some connection with Mahim Police. Legend says that one of the police man gave water to the dying saint while others narrate a story of how an old man helped Mahim police in fighting smugglers. They say the old man was the Saint himself. Whatever may be the truth but during the 10 days of Urs festival. A procession leaves Mahim Police station with 2 policemen from each police station of Mumbai and they offer a "Chaddar" or shawl at the tomb of the Saint on the first day of the festival every year.
The best part about Heritage walks is that you get to explore that other side of your neighbourhood which is full of interesting stories surrounding the place, helps you connect the historical dots if any and also helps find some priceless heritage. These stories and places just needs to be highlighted so we can preserve them in a better way and be proud of having them in our maximum city. In my few hours of walk, I was able to explore so many places which was pleasantly surprising and yet there are many more stories and many more places that is waiting to be explored and be highlighted.
My heritage walk continues in next post ( Mahim walk - part 2 )
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